Day 5 Hiking, dangling, whale watching and yoga

Day 5 Fri Aug 29

Sunshine beams through the curtains as my eyes open much too early this morning.     For the first time I need to roll over for another hour of sleep, but Boris, our expedition leader, announces our morning plans with the regular wake up call and we head down for coffee.  We have crossed the mouth of Lancaster Sound in the night (blissfully calm water) and find ourselves cruising down Navy Board Channel with Bylot Island off the port side and the cliffs of Baffin Island to starboard.  This is Sirmilik National Park, land of glaciers, cliffs, and birds.
 

What is it saying?

The view from on top

We embark for the shore of Baffin Island in zodiacs and strip off wet gear before we hike.  The keeners race off uphill, intent on a 6 km forced march.  I stay behind, delighted to hear that the slower group will reach the first hilltop too, but with stops for birdwatching and photography.  Some stay on the shore, basking in sun, watching geese and snowy owls through the spotting scopes.  Our hike takes us over lichen covered boulders and muskeg bog to a bare hilltop crowned with an inukshuk.


The history of the almost mansized marker is unknown, but it is clearly old and undisturbed by time.  I am intrigued - is it a signpost of the Inuit saying here is good hunting ground?  Is it a way point for early explorers, covering a buried message from Franklin?  Is it merely 19th century graffiti - ' shop at the Hudson's Bay store in the next harbour'?

 

The gangway dangles above a zodiac


 Returning late again for lunch, our zodiacs push through waves, scattering spray.  The gangway hangs like a fragile thread from the ship while we bounce in the 3 foot swell.  Matching foot to foothold is a challenge, and I am grateful for the arm of Sergai, a strong Russian seaman who lifts me clear of the heaving inflatable to safety.  More adventure than I bargained for!

This afternoon we continue southward, deeper into the channel.  The cry goes up 'Orcas off the port bow!' and we race on deck again.  Ahead several kilometers blows are visible, but we soon catch up, and the large pod surge around us feeding on capelin.  We have a magnificent display of orca behavior - big males are thrashing through the rich waters, females with babies feed more leisurely, groups split off, roll, dive, breech.  They seem to become more comfortable with our giant ship as we sit stationary
watching, and the group head straight towards our bow.  They play just below us, and suddenly one big male makes a show of diving, blowing bubbles as he shoots beneath our starboard side, reappearing on the port. He almost seems to be responding to our screams of laughter.  They regroup, turn away together, and head off to better fishing grounds.  We head inside, breathless with delight.

Norbert caught the big male just as he dove beneath us.

 

Yoga in the sun on deck 7

I stretch for half and hour before dinner in the yoga class while our group collect for happy hour in Richard and Judith's spacious cabin.  We couldn't all fit into one of our tiny steerage class rooms unless someone sat on the toilet!  I feel a bit over scheduled, what with lectures on birds, bears, photography, history, and art on offer, plus the constant spectacular scenery before us.  I managed a blissful visit to the top deck hot tub yesterday as we cruised past gorgeous icebergs.  Tomorrow I want to step back a bit and relax.

Orcas off the starboard bow.