Sunshine beams through the curtains as my eyes open much too early this morning. For the first time I need to roll over for another hour of sleep, but Boris, our expedition leader, announces our morning plans with the regular wake up call and we head down for coffee. We have crossed the mouth of Lancaster Sound in the night (blissfully calm water) and find ourselves cruising down Navy Board Channel with Bylot Island off the port side and the cliffs of Baffin Island to starboard. This is Sirmilik National Park, land of glaciers, cliffs, and birds.
What is it saying? |
The view from on top |
The history of the almost mansized marker is unknown, but it is clearly old and undisturbed by time. I am intrigued - is it a signpost of the Inuit saying here is good hunting ground? Is it a way point for early explorers, covering a buried message from Franklin? Is it merely 19th century graffiti - ' shop at the Hudson's Bay store in the next harbour'?
The gangway dangles above a zodiac |
Returning late again for lunch, our zodiacs push through waves, scattering spray. The gangway hangs like a fragile thread from the ship while we bounce in the 3 foot swell. Matching foot to foothold is a challenge, and I am grateful for the arm of Sergai, a strong Russian seaman who lifts me clear of the heaving inflatable to safety. More adventure than I bargained for!
This afternoon we continue southward, deeper into the channel. The cry goes up 'Orcas off the port bow!' and we race on deck again. Ahead several kilometers blows are visible, but we soon catch up, and the large pod surge around us feeding on capelin. We have a magnificent display of orca behavior - big males are thrashing through the rich waters, females with babies feed more leisurely, groups split off, roll, dive, breech. They seem to become more comfortable with our giant ship as we sit stationary
watching, and the group head straight towards our bow. They play just below us, and suddenly one big male makes a show of diving, blowing bubbles as he shoots beneath our starboard side, reappearing on the port. He almost seems to be responding to our screams of laughter. They regroup, turn away together, and head off to better fishing grounds. We head inside, breathless with delight.
Norbert caught the big male just as he dove beneath us. |
Yoga in the sun on deck 7 |
Orcas off the starboard bow. |
No comments:
Post a Comment